Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are reluctant to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
